What you get:
Four BSA wheels. Four BSA axles professionally coated with TxW Ghost Graphite by TxChemist himself.
No machining on the axles. No lathing or other machining on the wheels. They will pass ALL inspections because they are RAW BSA parts- just turbocharged with Ghost Graphite.
What is Ghost Graphite?
Ghost Graphite is a clear, thin, dry Vapor Deposited film on the axles. It is strong enough to cover the imperfections of the typical raw axle, and matched to the special coating on the inside of the wheels, give long spin times and super fast track times. This coating will last for many, many races and never needs any additional graphite added- no messy puffing, no ruined pain jobs.
How fast must I be to take first place?
If your car is in the top 5% of speeds measured on Cub cars, you have a 95% chance of winning.
If your car is in the top 1%, you have a 99% chance to take first. TxW Ghost Graphite can get you into the top 1%. ( assuming you can reasonably drill axle holes and get the weight on correct.) At least you do not have to worry about the axle and wheel prep and adding graphite- all not needed with Ghost Graphite.
So what price do I have to pay to get this speed?
Not as much as many slower axles and wheels that are for sale. We have not tested all the others, but from the ones we have, we are the fastest with no added graphite and are a super low cost wheel & axle combination. We have set Pack, District, Council, and even National MA Track records with this process.
Individual packs vary quite a bit, and there are many packs where no one knows what to do. In those packs, almost anything you do to your car can turn it into a winner, but by the time you get to Districts, you almost for sure will face strong competition. The odds in the following chart reflect a typical District race with 50 good cars, or an above average large pack. So at the district race a slow time could get beat by 80% of the cars, but you were still your pack winner if your pack has few skills. This happens all the time and keeps a lot of inferior product selling.
You will see from above that we produce the fastest axle & wheel combination tested so far. Our claim to fame is we make a product fast enough to win most of the time, but it is super low cost. All this and no messy graphite needed ever.
The best way to get your speed is to carefully put an axle through the bore of each wheel and give it a spin. Try to spin each wheel with the same force. Use a clock or carefully count how long each wheel spins. Put the two longest spinning smoothest spinning wheels on the back of your car. If you know which wheel is the DFW, put the next longest spin there.Do not touch the axles where the wheel will be with your fingers. You can use a small magnet, tweezers, or even a 1-2″ straw to pick up and maneuver the axle .
Speed increased from Raw no lubed parts being beat by 80% of cars to be in the top 1% of all Cub times on both the Council track and the Pack track combined.
The fastest time on my track was also the fastest time on the Council track that year. ( our tracks run within 2 thousands of a second of each other) That same car had fenders added and Mid America style wheels and TxChemist designed stainless steel axles added to take the track record for Youth Oil at the National race in Omaha.
When rules allow, this process will run faster with most oils, but if you are “Dry Lube” only rules or Graphite only, then this process will beat all but the Pro helped cars. Especially if your rules are “out of the box” parts, this is the best way to go. Spend your time making a great car, and add these axles and wheels to finish the job with a real chance of speed. If your rules also prohibit lathed wheels, this is your best option.
The process will hold up for way more races than you will need to finish pack, district, and council races. NO extra graphite is needed or recommended. The final coat of lube on the axles has a very thin layer that has been perfected to match the last coat inside the wheels so the friction is super low.
Please make sure your axle holes are able to take the axle with gentle thumb pressure to push in. DO NOT PULL on the wheel to remove. Use needle nose pliers or strong thread to pull out any axle. It is best to just push it in and use something to set the wheel gap like a thin plastic card, and then leave it alone.
Our tests were run on a TxW Canopy test car